Monday, December 31, 2012

Looking forward to our trip ...

It's the last day of 2012, and we have barely 48 hours before we depart for Israel.  I had hoped for and planned for a six month sabbatical there, but those plans have been altered. Elana's sister, Reena, is ill, and so Elana may return to the States sooner.  So might I.  Everything is up in the air right now.

But one thing is (relatively) certain: we have tickets on a flight departing Newark for Israel on Wednesday afternoon, and we expect to be on it.  And we have a place to stay for the first six weeks: Dovid and Shayna Roskies' lovely apartment on Eli Cohen Street in Jerusalem.  We are looking forward to staying there once again.  Following our stay there, we'll travel around Israel for 10 days with the Temple Aliyah group, and then, if we'll be staying on, we'll move into an apartment on Rehov HaPalmach.

Below is a picture that I believe Leora took when we were last travelling in the Negev together, back in 2005: it's taken at Sde Boker, overlooking the Wilderness of Zin.  I look forward to going to that exact spot in about a month and a half, with the Temple Aliyah group.

Until then ...



Wednesday, June 6, 2012

"Oh, Really?"


“Oh, Really?”
A True Story

This is a story that I rarely tell today, even though it’s a true story.  The reason is that it comes from such a different world than our own post-9/11 world, with different assumptions about what is safe and prudent -- and what isn't.  So do me a favor:  don't pass it around.

Once upon a time -- it was, I think, in the summer of 1975 -- I was travelling to Israel via Europe.  I was just out of college.  I had been to London and Paris, and now I was in Switzerland, my last stop before flying to Tel Aviv.  I had flown into Zurich from Paris, dropped off a few suitcases in the “Gepรคckaufbewahrung” – the Left Luggage Office (which, given today’s security concerns, probably doesn’t exist anymore), bought a two-day rail pass and travelled to Bern and other towns.  I finally ended up in the lovely town of Interlaken, where I took a cog railway car traveling at a very steep angle up to a high local peak.  After viewing the stunning panorama from atop, I headed to the railway station to get back to town, only to see the train depart five minutes early (by my watch -- but then again, whose watch would you trust, mine or that of a Swiss train conductor?).  Rather than wait an hour, I decided to hitch a ride down the mountain.  Almost immediately, someone picked me up and we headed down the mountain together.  After a little chit-chat, the driver asked me, "Where are you headed?"  I debated whether to tell him the truth.  I had encountered explicit anti-semitism, here and there, during the previous few weeks, and I wasn't so sure how comfortable it was going to be to continue to share a car with someone who was hostile to Jews or to Israel. And we weren't yet half-way down the mountain! But I decided to go for it.  
"Israel," I said.  
"Oh, really," he responded.  "Why are you going there?"  
He looked at me curiously.  I told him that I was going to be working on a kibbutz, and travelling around.  He looked at me with some suspicion, and then he exclaimed, "Mah Nishmah?"  It turned out that he was, of course, an Israeli -- a practicing veterinarian, of all things -- who was now living in Switzerland.  (What are the chances of that happening? Really?)  We kept switching back and forth between English and Hebrew, and within a few minutes, we had hit it off beautifully.  He told me that he had come to Switzerland to study to become a veterinarian.  Expecting to return immediately thereafter, instead he had met a woman who was to become his wife, and had ended up settling into a vet practice in town.  His wife, who was Swiss, was in Israel with their little boy on "hofesh" (holiday), studying Hebrew at an ulpan for a few weeks.  Although he and his wife, who'd been married for about eight years, enjoyed living in Switzerland, he still harbored dreams of returning to Israel.  Besides, his wife wanted to be able better to communicate with her in-laws -- and wanted to help her child do the same.
He offered to take me around the area after he finished up at work.  I readily agreed.  And so, after witnessing him putting one cat to sleep and performing a hysterectomy on another (at least that's what he told me he was doing; oy), we took off in his car and had a fabulous afternoon and evening.   He even offered to let me stay at his place rather than return to the youth hostel where I had reserved a room. After all, my train back to Zurich was due to leave at 5:00 am, and I'd save time by staying at his place.  (I knew now to set my watch ahead by a few minutes.)  
Before I packed my belongings, he asked me to do him a favor: His wife was staying with some old friends of his in Jerusalem, and their dog was sick.  Could I take some dog medicine back with me to Israel and give it to them?  Sure, I said.  No sweat.  And so I packed it into my suitcase, and went to sleep.
The next morning, I got up bright and early, walked to the train station, and within a very short time -- it was an express train -- I was at the Zurich airport.  I picked up my bags and proceeded to the boarding area.    
Now, you have to realize that this was a long time ago, long before that awful case of the Palestinian terrorist who packed the suitcase of his unsuspecting Irish girlfriend with explosives to explode on board the plane (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hindawi_affair).  Nonetheless, this was a few years after the Lod airport massacre (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lod_Airport_massacre) and other similarly bloody attacks.  So there were armed policemen monitoring the area where the El Al passengers were gathering, and, needless to say, there were plenty of security people inspecting our baggage. 

So there I was: a young, innocent student traveling alone with a couple of heavy suitcases (which the inspector, of course, asked me to open).  After rummaging around for a few moments, the inspector came across a plastic Ziploc bag containing the packages of pills that my congenial host had given to me.  One of the packages was open, and a few of the pills spilled out as he held it up.  The dialogue that ensued I will never forget:
"What's this?" he asked.
"Medicine," I responded.
"What kind of medicine?" he asked.
"Dog medicine," I said.
"Oh really," he asked.  "Do you have a dog?"
"No," I said.
"So then why do you have it?"
"Actually," I said, -- and by this time, I could see something out of the corner of my eye -- "a friend of mine gave it to me yesterday.  Um, it's medicine for his friend's dog in Israel." 
"Really," he said.  "Tell me more."
By this time, I sensed rather than saw that I was now surrounded.
Without raising his voice, and with his eyes still on me, the inspector calmly called out to his buddies, "Yossi, Hayyim, Moti: could you kindly take a more careful look at this passenger's bag?"  
I realized that if breathed a little more deeply, I'd bump into Yossi and Hayyim, two unsmiling, stocky, sturdy and athletic young men who were now on either side of me, as Moti -- who was apparently standing behind me, and was equally strong -- began to frisk me.
“Please spread your legs, sir.”
"Actually," I said, "this is really easy to understand.  You see, I met someone yesterday, a veterinarian, an Israeli veterinarian ..."
"Really," the inspector said.  (I could tell that he was beginning to like that word.)  "How did you meet him?"
"Well," I said, "I was hitchhiking."  
Need I continue?  
The more I talked, the calmer and quieter everyone around me became, even as I became more and more flustered.  My awareness of the absurdity of what I had done was interfering with my ability to express myself.  Nothing I said made sense.  Everything I said sounded ridiculous:  to me, as well as to my interlocutors.  On the other hand, they were hardly listening to me.  They were focusing their attention on my belongings rather than on me.  My story was so ridiculous that after thoroughly searching my luggage, the security agents, finally convinced that I was  innocent of nothing more egregious than stupidity, began to drift away. By now, they were thoroughly bored.

The story has a happy ending:  the next day, I went to the ulpan in Jerusalem which my new friend's wife was attending (yes, she really did exist and she really was a student there) and I carried out the "handoff" of the medicine.  And yes, although I never had a visual siting of the dog on behalf of whom I had brought medicine into the country, I am convinced that he did exist, and that the pills that I brought into the country really were dog medicine tablets.  A few days later, I learned that the dog had made a wonderful recovery.

That's my story.  Perhaps you'll understand why I myself no longer take medicine from other people to Israel -- whether for dogs or for people.